How To Know Resin Leakage?
Check for material leakage. If a leak is suspected, run an odd color material for 10 minutes before shutting down to help visually trace the leaks. The new color can be seen close to where the leak originates.
Find the root cause of the leak by inspecting the following:
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Nozzle tip area.
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Seal-off between the nozzles and the manifold. Check seal rings, if present.
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Pin seals (between the valve pin and the manifold) in valve gate systems.
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Areas around the manifold end plugs.
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Interface between the feeder bushing and the manifold. Sometimes, damage to the nozzle seating area on the feeder bushing can also lead to plastic leaking into the hot half.
Correct the leak using the following steps:
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If the tip area leaks, inspect the tip and the bore in the mold cavity. Correct or replace the part that is out of spec.
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Verify that the manifold is seated evenly on all nozzles. They should be within 0.001 inch or so.
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Check with a height gage and dial indicator.
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check the height of all lower support pads.
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Inspect the manifold for its flatness or hobbing on the nozzle seating side. Correct if necessary.
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Install the manifold onto the nozzles, then use a height gage to check the upper support pads to ensure they are within manufacturer specs.
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Inspect the top clamp plate and look for any sign of hobbing caused by the manifold’s supports. If excess hobbing is observed, regrinding the top clamp plate may be necessary. A deformed top clamp plate could also lead to leaks, which should be verified and addressed.
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Replace valve pins, valve pin seals and piston seals after 12 months of use or sooner.
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Keep spares of these perishable components to reduce downtime.